Having landed safely in Australia, it would have been tempting to assume I was nearly there given this was my last country. However, as you can see from the map below, I still had more than 2700 km to go, almost as long as the distance from London to Istanbul. I was extremely excited about this part of the route though – in fact it was basically the only part of the trip where I had known exactly what I wanted to do before I left England.
Before getting back on the bike, I spent a few days in Cairns. Cairns is perhaps the biggest backpacker town I’ve been to – it really is the dominant theme throughout the place, which is unusual for a relatively big town. Despite a few establishments with questionable reputations, it’s really good fun too and a place where generally it’s very easy to meet good people.
However, for me the biggest draw here is the chance to scuba dive the Great Barrier Reef. This was where I first learnt to scuba dive four and a half years ago, and it has become one of my favourite things to do, even if due to cost and good locations, I do it far too rarely for my liking! It’s definitely an acquired taste though – some people find it absolutely petrifying but it really puts me at ease and it’s one of the few things I do where I don’t think about anything else, which is a really great feeling. Arguably more importantly, you can see so many awesome things while diving that you can’t see anywhere else – so definitely something I think everyone should try at least once!
Cairns to Airlie Beach via Townsville
Having had a reasonably long spell off the bike, I was really excited to get going again and make my way down to Airlie Beach. The first half of this 650km or so trip went reasonably serenely though it was already noticeable the huge distances between any forms of civilisation, in direct contrast to almost the whole of South East Asia.
About 275km in, I stopped off in Townsville to go and spend a couple of days on Magnetic Island, which was both very picturesque and a delight to cycle around. I have to admit at this point I was getting worryingly close to thinking I’d cracked this cycling malarkey. However, the second half of this leg really put that comical complacency to bed and then some.
The main reason for this was that for the remaining 375km down to Airlie Beach, I had the dubious pleasure of the company of a tropical cyclone for most of the way. This was an absolutely brutal stretch of the trip to say the least. What should have taken me three days ended up taking me five and a half and to be honest I was lucky I had built in some leeway, having learnt from the errors of our ways back in Western Europe. Torrential rain and strong winds is never a great combination but it’s really hard work when there’s also no cover as was regularly the case in this remote part of Australia, where gaps of 60-80km between buildings would be commonplace. So I was regularly presented with the choice of either standing still and getting soaked or plodding along and getting soaked and perhaps not surprisingly chose the latter! The four hours I spent shivering and feeling sorry for myself in a mcdonalds in Ingram has to represent a real lowlight of the trip, perhaps only bettered by the day I spent numerous hours passing out in various parts of the Serbian countryside as I foolishly battled a viral infection in my stomach.
The one saving grace of the whole experience was that it happened relatively near the end, when I could almost taste the finish line. I have to admit if I had had weather like that in the first week, I would have been very tempted to go home!
Airlie Beach
Airlie Beach is where you can go and see the world famous Whitsundays, something that represented a major bucket list item for me in the context of this trip. They are absolutely gorgeous and who doesn’t enjoy spending a few days on a boat in great weather. I also got extremely lucky with the people I met here. I met two cracking Irish girls on Magnetic Island who happened to be doing the same boat tour as me which was extremely reassuring given going onto a boat full of 50 people solo can be quite an intimidating experience. Once we did get on though, we were greeted by a cracking bunch of people who made these three days such a fun experience. I can’t recommend having a look around here enough if you’re ever in the area.
Airlie Beach to Rainbow Beach and Fraser Island
Having fortunately being blessed with awesome weather for the Whitsundays, once I got back on the bike I was greeted by yet another tropical cyclone! Luckily this one was both smaller and much shorter so it felt like a relative walk in the park compared to the one before Airlie Beach.
At 983km, this was second longest stint of the trip after our escapades in the Uzbek desert way back in September. In spite of the obvious differences between the two countries, these two stints held one key similarity in that they were both going through very remote parts of their respective countries, where pockets of civilisation were few and far between. This just required a little more preparation than usual on my part in terms of food and water but it gave me all the more appreciation for Compo’s trip across the proper outback from Perth to Adelaide, which must have been absolutely bonkers from this perspective.
When I did come across small villages and towns they had an oddly American feel with the layout and signage almost making it seem like mid-west America. This initially surprised me given Australia’s past with England but perhaps makes more sense considering the similar ages of both America and Australia as the countries we know them as today.
Mentally this stint was a huge one for me, as it was the last really big stint of the trip before Sydney so I was beyond delighted when I rolled into Rainbow Beach, knowing not only that I had Fraser Island to look forward too but also that I had less than a month til Sydney.
Fraser Island itself was a real highlight and probably my favourite place in Australia. It’s the world’s biggest sand island and a truly unique place. It’s such a pleasure to ride over the sand dunes in a 4×4 as well as enjoying the spectacular views and even seeing the odd dingo here and there! We were all camping on the island which normally wouldn’t be my favourite thing in the world but I had my own three man tent with built in roll mat that felt like absolute luxury compared the single man tent I had been using the whole trip!
Rainbow Beach to Byron Bay
Following a pretty long stint to get to Rainbow beach, I was looking forward to a more action packed period where I would pass through Noosa, Coolum Bay, Brisbane and the Gold Coast all in the next few hundred kilometres on the way to Byron Bay.
So far I had mostly had to cycle on main roads through north Queensland simply due to a lack of other options but now I could treat myself to some coastal routes that were an absolute delight to cycle on.
I also had the pleasure of catching up with lots of people from various different walks of life, which is always one of my favourite things about travelling.
First, it was great to see Lee, who kindly put me up in Coolum Bay. The last time I saw Lee was about 9 years ago on a big orange truck in Thailand so it’s fair to say this was a welcome bonus!
Next I made it to Brisbane where it was awesome to catch up with my friends Nino and alex from penn.
I also had the additional bonus of staying with Fiona, who looked after me during the pinnacle of my existence from the ages of 1-3. Not only are Fiona and her family absolutely wonderful but Fiona also shared with me some exclusive never-before-seen photos of me as a child that absolutely made my day!
The riding in this area was very smooth and quite fairly non eventful apart from the fact that after almost 11 months of riding, I finally saw my first sign for Sydney! Don’t think I’ve ever been so excited for a sign in my life, even if I did still have a fair way to go!
Byron Bay to Sydney
The final leg of the trip started with a few days resting up in Byron bay. Here, I had the absolute pleasure of catching up with anna and mike, who had kindly flown up from Melbourne. Byron is normally a great place to hang out by the beach but the weather was absolutely awful while we were there. Fortunately, there are loads of excellent food places so we ate very well instead! When the sun did eventually pop out, we made the most of it – heading out to the lighthouse which had absolutely glorious views.
Next, I got back on the bike and started making my way down to Sydney. I had about 770km to go but breaking the habit of a lifetime, I was actually ahead of schedule and was getting seriously itchy feet to finish.
The roads here were great and I was able to make good progress, including a 145 km day, which was right up there with my biggest of the trip. From a travelling perspective, there’s not that much between byron bay and Sydney but I did stop off for a day in both Coffs Harbour and Newcastle.
The most famous thing in Coffs Harbour is a big banana. I’m not sure why it’s there but it is vaguely entertaining nonetheless. The big banana also has a mini golf course, where it was delightful to be reminded what a terrible putter I am after all these years.
Newcastle is quite a big city about 170km north of Sydney. With nice beaches and excellent weather – it is nothing like its English counterpart. I did enjoy the easy going pace of life here, coupled with it having everything you could hope for from a city. Here, I also broke their habit of a lifetime and went to watch a marvel movie by myself – something that never would have happened had I not lived with compo and jack for two years – so gents I hope you’re proud!
Henry came up to join me for the last 60km from Ettalong to Sydney, which was a beautiful ride until it got unbelievably hilly in and around Mosman Bay and I was reminded that I will always be an average to poor cyclist haha.
Getting first sight of the harbour bridge was a monumentally good moment. I wouldn’t recommend cycling over it though – you pretty much just get battered by the wind! A few minutes later we made it to the opera house where we were greeted by mum and Dad and our friend Charlie who had flown up from Adelaide.
Finally finishing just over eleven months after I had rolled out of Kennington was an unbelievably great feeling and it was awesome to finish something that had started as a complete pipe dream three years ago!
Naturally we celebrated with a good meal and a few drinks with mum, Dad and Charlie, all of whom regularly remarked how much compo and I were acting like a married couple. Charlie, compo and I then hopped around a few excellent bars in Sydney before we finished the night watching Fulham lose to Derby in the semi final playoff first leg at four in the morning, which really shattered any delusions of grandeur I may have had upon arriving in Sydney!
A few thank yous
The remainder of this is likely to be unbearably sentimental so if that’s not your cup of tea then please look away now haha!
I wanted to say a few thank yous to people primarily because it’s the right thing to do but also because when I read these blogs again when I’m old and grey, I want to remember what was important to me at the time.
First up, thanks to all the wonderful people I met along the way, who made this whole year so much more enjoyable for me with their sensational company and in many cases quite frankly ludicrous hospitality.
Second thanks to all the people from home who saw me off and came out to see us along the way. I’m sure we provided an excellent excuse for a holiday to a silly location but from my point of view it was so motivating to have something to look forward to especially when I was in the middle of nowhere so thanks again for coming out!
And of course a massive thanks to Compo for two main reasons. First, having sat on this silly idea for about a month, Henry was the first person I discussed it with. His belief that it was doable and that he also wanted to get involved was both as surprising as it was most welcome! I’m sure it was also reassuring for mum and dad that I was at least going with one person who knew how to ride a bike! Second, thanks for somehow surviving six months plus on the road with me – a miracle I’m sure we can all agree. My only regret is all the targeted Fulham ads I get on social media now because of all the unbearable Ryan Sessegnon things you tag me in.
Finally thanks to my cracking family. First to Paul for awesomely coming to see me in Georgia and Azerbaijan and crucially bringing my edgy and trendy cycling glasses that were a true lifesaver on this trip!
And to mum and dad – I think one of the better things about getting older is you appreciate more and more everything your parents have done for you and that was definitely the case this year! It was just incredible to see you in some properly interesting places like Turkey and India and thanks again for seeing us over the line in Sydney. And thanks for generously providing us with some much needed respite from our camping/hostel life! Most importantly, thanks for giving me the confidence to have a go at this – your unbelievable support made it so much easier so cheers to you!
And finally to everyone thanks for reading!
Dave